update

yes, i realize that its over a month and a half since my last blog, and i honestly dont know how that happens (and so often). i suppose supplement journal writing takes the need of getting out thoughts, feelings, observations, and growth, and the blog is left somewhere in the background.

i was just in the plaza of rurrenabaque (spelling could be wrong) and thinking that i LOVE bolivia. i love it. the people, the way of life, and the warmth most of all. i figure that bolivia is the most extreme (fuerte) country that i know. extreme in geography (immense salt flats, extreme heat and cold, amazon rainforest, and the altiplano). extreme poverty (i do believe its the poorest country in the western hemisphere). extreme warmth (living as a foreigner and having 90% of people you pass greet you with a smile or buenos dias). it has evoked sickness (thanks to an unfortunate incident with an humita from the street), pain (both physical and emotional, thanks to bugs and seeing extreme poverty), and friendships. the very fact that i entered this internet cafe to find a small puppy sleeping next to the computer, completely unbothered by my presence, is not uncommon.

its been wonderful, hard, and thought provoking to travel, alone, as a female, in bolivia. i want so badly to delve deep into the country, into the lives of people i meet, into thinking and the way of life. on the other hand i get anxious at being alone, at being a target. so ive found im trying to walk the line between safety and overly cautious, between being a gringa tourist and being more. always thinking if my presence is leaving anything beneficial, or am i the only one gaining from this trip. ive found that tour guides (for the mines of potosì, the salares de uyuni, and the jungle in rurrenabarque) have been a large key to friendships and to insights. btw, my south american name is elizabeth, as blair is entirely too difficult to pronounce and remember.

hmm, this blog is a bit random. i suppose it comes with thinking about 1000 things when trying to write. on one hand, i just received some emails from friends from santiago, and am missing their friendships, smiles, and sarcasm. at the same time im looking at grad schools around the country and mussing job possibilities in san diego. im already planning on living in south america for a year in the future, stable, in one place with a job, to get to KNOW people, make those friendships and connections, and develop myself in a different way. its interesting, because in traveling you see a lot of places and people, but you dont get the opportunity to develop possible friendships or truly understand what you are seeing. granted, ive seen some absolutely amazing scenery and met wonderful people, but how much do i really know about bolivia?

ok, backing up. i left santiago de chile on april 2, flew to san pedro de atacama (the desert in northern chile) and from there took a tour of the lagunas and salt flats of bolivia. we went in a 4x4 jeep, and felix the guide/driver/chef was absolutely genuine and wonderful. during the middle of the dry desert, with no one except our partner jeep in sight, we heard a loud pop followed by a deflating hssss sound. my first reaction was panic: flat tire in the middle of the desert kind of panic! and felix, looked at us, laughed for about 20 seconds. ok i thought, thats one way to approach the situation. and, life everything in bolivia, he got out, and with the help of his uncle in law and fellow driver changed the tire and took off at an amazing speed.

in potosi, i went into the famous and aweful mines, where hundreds of bolivians still work in absolutely appalling conditions. within 10 to 15 years of entering the mines, most miners die from lung and respiratory problems. it was shocking to see the conditions, but even more shocking and sad to see some of the way fellow travelers treated the mine as a tourist attraction.

but moving on, i went to a soccer game between potosì and la paz with some of the tour guides and their friends. i had met entrique, a son of one of the miners, earlier in the day and he seemed a bit afraid of me. well, by the time we got to the game, no more. he was wearing one of those huge foam hats with spikes everywhere, and i simply commented that it was stylish. he promply asked if i wanted to trade (mind you, i was wearing a baseball hat given to me by a chilean friend who works for a supermarket). i figured, i was one of 3 tall while people in the entire stadium... what does a huge purple hat do for me? im already standing out like no other, it doesnt really matter at this point. so i took the swap, and not only looked like a fool, but was a fool, as it was extremely hot and the sun shining directly in our eyes. enrique was protected thanks to my baseball hat, and i was there getting burned and looking a fool. hes a smooth kid.

after potosi to cochabamba, la paz, coroico, and now here in rurrebarque. ill have one more week in bolivia, spent in la paz and lake titicaca, then to lima to pick up tom and travel for 3 more weeks. ill be home may 24 and ready to start another phase in my life.